Goodspeed's History of ... Carroll County, Arkansas
Towns and Villages, p. 367.
Eureka Springs.
This
city is situated upon Sections 10 and 15, Township 20 north, Range 26
west, in the northwestern part of the county, and upon the head-waters
of Leatherwood Creek, a tributary of White River. It is nine miles from
the Missouri line.
The Springs. --
There
are forty-two springs within the corporate limits of the city. First in
importance, in the volume of its waters and the number of cures
attributed to it, is the Basin Spring, so called from a circular
depression eighteen inches in diameter and a foot deep in the solid
limestone rock, in which a portion of the water from the cliff above
was received. Twelve feet below this there was originally another
basin, of similar shape, but much larger. Both have been destroyed in
improving the street. On the same bench, northeast of the Basin, is the
Sweet Spring, so called from the peculiar taste of its waters. Next in
order and in importance to the Basin is Harding Spring. Congress
Spring, in the immediate vicinity was discovered in blasting rocks, and
its entire flow is utilized by the Crescent Hotel. Continuing on Spring
Street, Crescent, the Twin Springs and Dairy Spring are successively
passed. The latter was formerly utilized in the business which its name
implies, but has been opened to the public, and is protected from
contamination. The Hollis Spring is a half mile northwest of Dairy
spring, and thence, southwest, are the Johnson and Oil Springs. The
waters of the latter have peculiar oleaginous qualities. The Sycamore,
Arsenic and several others are also in this vicinity. The Little Eureka
east of the Basin, remains unchanged by the heaviest rain-fall. To the
northeast, in the direction of the railroad station, are the Iron and
Sulphur Springs, so named from their mineral qualities. The Magnetic
Spring, whose waters have the property of rendering an ordinary piece
of iron magnetic, is in this vicinity.
Careful analysis has demonstrated that the waters of the various springs differ but little in their essential elements.
[Tables showing chemical analysis, volume, and temperature readings of the springs have been omitted from this transcription.]
Meteorological.
-- The
climatic conditions prevalent at Eureka Springs constitute one of the
strongest considerations in its favor. The following table was compiled
from original observations by A. H. Foote, Esq., for the year
1887:[Temperature table omitted from this transcription.]
Mean
temperature: Spring, 60.85; summer, 74.79; autumn, 58.01; winter,
42.08; annual, 58.93. Annual average precipitation, 32.79 inches.
Relative humidity, 59.4 per cent. Average number of days per annum,
clear, 209; fair, 90; cloudy, 66. Death rate per 1,000 living
population, 10.33.
Discovery of
Curative Properties. -- Thus
located in that happy mean between the extreme cold of the Northwestern
States and the tropical heat of the south, the springs existed to no
purpose, apparently, until comparatively recent years. But the story of
their discovery is no less interesting than the subsequent growth of
the city has been remarkable.
The earliest traditional
history connected with this part of the State is associated with the
springs. There is reason to think that the "Fountain of Perpetual
Youth," of which Ponce de Leon received such glowing accounts from the
Indians of Florida, and for which he explored a large part of the
southern country in vain, was none other than the Basin Spring,
described with the powerful figures of the Indian language to a
credulous listener. Prior to their migration westward, the Cherokees
had a tradition of wonderful springs in the mountains far to the west
of the "Father of Waters." They were said to possess virtue in the
healing of various maladies. Years after the settlement of this tribe
in Indian Territory it was their custom to hunt through the valley of
White River, when such as were afflicted with various diseases drank
the waters of these springs. It would also appear that similar
knowledge was possessed by the savages of the north. Jean Baptiste, who
mother was the daughter of a Sioux chief, related to Col. Gilbert
Knapp, of Little Rock, the following tradition of that tribe: Many
years ago, during a long and severe winter, many of them perished, and
the chief, thinking to save the remainder, set out upon a journey
south. They reached the forks of a great river, where game and corn
abounded, and would have been supremely happy but for the fact that the
daughter of this chief was blind, or almost so. Her father was told of
a stream of water flowing through beds of rock to a natural basin, two
days' journey distant, and prevailed upon by a medicine man to take his
daughter thither. They remained six moons, when she was entirely cured.
Hon. J. M. Richardson, of Carthage, Mo., in a conversation with "White
Hair," chief of the Osage Indians, in 1847, learned of a remarkable
spring in this vicinity, at which any Indian might be cured of sore
eyes by washing and bathing a full moon. The basin was said to have
been scooped out by "Black Dog," a chief, about seventy years before.
Dr.
Alvah Jackson was the virtual discoverer of the springs, so far as
their medicinal qualities and present wide reputation are concerned.
One of the earliest settlers in this part of the county, he found
little exercise in the practice of his profession among its sparse
population, and turned his attention to the more exciting pleasures of
the chase. It is related that while thus engaged, in the summer of
1858, he camped with his sons upon the present site of the Southern
Hotel. One of the sons was suffering from a painful inflammation of the
eyes, and having none of the usual remedies with him, his father
directed him to bathe in the Basin Spring. He obeyed, from desperation
rather than faith, and in the course of a few days was agreeably
surprised at a favorable change in his condition. Having thoroughly
satisfied himself of the efficacy of the water in such cases, the
Doctor extended his practice in this direction. "Dr. Jackson's
eye-water" acquired a wide reputation in this and adjoining States.
The
springs first reached the dignity of a health resort toward the close
of the Civil War. Dr. Jackson was frequently called upon by the sick
and wounded of both armies, among whom was Maj. J. W. Cooper, of
Cooper's battalion, Cherokee brigade, Confederate army. This officer
contracted rheumatism and chronic malarial poison while campaigning in
the Southwest, and having obtained leave of absence, he came to Dr.
Jackson, in February, 1865. As this section was then occupied by the
Federals it became necessary to take refuge in the mountain fastnesses;
and a party, consisting of the Doctor, the Major, William Nichols, Sine
Creeley, and two others, took refuge in the "rock house," near the
present site of the Southern hotel. Here they lived in archaic
simplicity, and in a few months the soldiers had completely recovered.
The
curative properties of the springs were not utilized from this time
until May, 1879, when Judge Sanders, of the county court, who suffered
from erysipelas, was induced by Dr. Jackson to test their efficiency.
He did so, and in ten weeks was completely cured. He was widely and
favorably known throughout this section of the State, and the fact of
his recovery induced others to follow his example in coming here. It is
to this remarkable cure that the existence of the city is directly
traceable.
Settlement and
Growth. -- The
region about the head-waters of Leatherwood Creek was an almost
unbroken wilderness in 1878. Farther down the valley of the creek there
were cultivated sections, but the whole of Cedar Township was very
sparsely settled. The hills and gulches about the springs were covered
with a forest of pine and oak, and with an almost impenetrable growth
of scrub and bushes. Rocks of every geological formation lined the
hills, and loose stones of every conceivable shape rolled down the
sides of the gulch below. Within less than a decade the forests have
been transformed into habitations, and the stones lend comfort and
permanence to the streets of a city whose wonderful growth might well
cause the sanguine observer to ascribe creative, as well as recreative,
properties to its far-famed waters.
Judge Sanders built the
first house July 4, 1879. The sides were formed of poles dove-tailed
together at the corners, and the roof consisted of rough boards. The
first team was driven to the vicinity of Basin Spring by Burton
Sandeers, son of the judge. The first occupants of the first house were
two lady members of his family. July 6, 1879, O. D. Thornton built a
rough board shanty, and occupied it as a general store. At this time
there was a small band of invalids, to the number of 150, probably,
collected around the Basin Spring, and living in tents and wagons.
Before the close of July the number of houses had increased to a dozen.
August 10, 1879, there was a population of 180; fifteen houses had been
built, and as many more were in process of erection. The stores of ol
D. Thornton and T. Jackson were in operation; there were also a meat
market and a blacksmith shop. A week later the population had increased
to 300. Measures were taken to have the streets laid out and passable
roads opened, and to this end H. S. Montgomery, with twenty men,
cleared away the trees and opened Main Street half a mile down the
gorge from the Basin. William M. Sanders was one of the blacksmiths. In
the autumn of 1879 a Mr. Van Winkle established a lumber yard; A. D.
Mize opened a hardware store; Dr. Hoge became the first druggist; one
Jefferson opened a saloon, and a Mr. Wahlquist introduced himself as a
tailor. The first bath-house was established in August, 1879. Dr.
McCarty was the first resident physician, and likewise the first
postmaster. William Conant was the first liveryman. A Mr. Cook, a
helpless invalid and cripple, with no other tool than a jack-knife,
began the manufacture of canes, and did quite a business. The first
death occurred August 8, 1879. Prof. I. A. Clarke, of the Berryville
Academy, was among the early visitors, and his wife was killed by the
falling of a tree that had been burned at the roots by a camp-fire.
The
nearest railroad point in 1880 was Pierce City, Mo., on the St. Louis
& San Francisco Railway, fifty-five miles distant. Liverymen
here
did a thriving business, and a line of coaches, known as the
"Nine-hour-line," was established in 1880. The fare was $3.00. In a
distance of nine miles this road crosses Roaring River nineteen times.
There was also a regular line of coaches from Ozark, Ark., eighty-five
miles distant. This journey required nineteen hours, and the fare was
$8.00. After the extension of the Frisco line to Fayetteville,
Seligman, Mo., eighteen miles distant, became the nearest railroad
point.
Population. -- In
May, 1881, Mayor Carroll had a census taken, when the population was
found to exceed 8,000. The Federal census of the previous year showed a
population of 3,984. The number of visitors in 1883 was estimated at
9,000, and the actual resident population at about the same. Under the
severe police regulations, and from other causes, the town has been
relieved of an undesirable element. The permanent inhabitants number
5,500, with a steady and substantial growth. "Life at the Springs,"
says a writer in 1881, "is to a great extent most primitive. The
furniture is of the rudest, the accommodations few, and the
inconveniences many. The cooking is much of it done out of doors, in
the old-fashioned skillet and bake-oven. Many wealthy families prefer
tent life, and the site is peculiarly favorable for the experiment. The
loan of a drinking cup at the spring, or a fire-brand at the camp,
often leads to a lasting friendship. There is little conformity to
fashion, though many stylishly dressed people throng the streets. You
speak to everybody you meet, whether you know them or not, and are sure
of a courteous, cordial return. * * * * * * * The preliminary steps at
meeting are the questions as to whence you came, when you arrived, how
long you will stay, your malady, and your name. To some, this wholesale
prying into your affairs may seem impertinent; but to the lonely
camper, miles and miles away from familiar faces, sick and longing for
sympathy, it is very pleasant."
The town is thus described:
"Everywhere that a human abode could be constructed, houses of every
description, tents and shelters, sprang up all over the mountain tops,
hanging by corners on the steep sides, perched upon jutting boulders,
spanning the gulches, or nestling under crags and in grottoes. It is a
most peculiar looking place, presenting an apparent disregard to
anything like order and regularity of arrangement, with its 'two-story'
streets, its winding thoroughfares and circular pathways."
Fires. -- A
destructive fire broke out at 4:50 A. M., November 3, 1883, in a
building claimed by one Cushingberry, whose right was disputed by his
son. The origin was undoubtedly incendiary. The burnt area extended on
both sides of Mountain and Eureka Streets, covering five acres, and
involving a loss of $25,000. Vigorous preventive measures were at once
taken, and no similar catastrophe has since occurred.
Municipal
Organization. -- Town
committee: August 8, 1879, Hugh Montgomery, T. Montgomery, Jacob Mills,
Q. Bennett, J. Hooker, Alderson, McGuire, Nuby, Hardin, Tatum, Cook and
another were elected at a public meeting a committee for the general
management of such affairs as concerned the public in the incipient
period of town development. The most important act of this committee
was the appointment of I. N. Armstrong, of Benton County, town
surveyor. Under instructions from the committee, a reservation of 100
feet around the basin spring was laid off, from which an avenue sixty
feet wide was surveyed to the intersection of Main Street. Maj.
Armstrong continued his work until the middle of the winter, laying out
the principal streets of the town. The original committee was
superseded [sic] by another, which dissolved without transacting any
important business.
Incorporation: October 8, 1879, the
petition of twenty citizens of Eureka Springs was filed in the county
court of Carroll County, for incorporation as a town. January 2, 1880,
the petition was dismissed, because there was not the required number
of voters within the proposed limits. January 9, 1880, seventy-one
qualified voters signed a second petition, which was favorably
considered by the court February 14, 1880. Section 15 and the south
half of Section 10, Township 20 north, Range 26 west, thus became the
incorporated town of Eureka Springs. The first election of town
officers occurred April 6, 1880. In 1882, the population having
sufficiently increased, Eureka Springs, became a city of the first
class. The mayor was thus given enlarged powers, and the number of
aldermen increased to ten. There are five wards.